Meet Arlette Laan, the woman hiking all 11 National Scenic Trails

Arlette Laan posing on enormous erratics along the Trade River Segment. Photo by Roberta Smith.
Arlette Laan posing on enormous erratics along the Trade River Segment. Photo by Roberta Smith.

Once Arlette completes the Ice Age National Scenic Trail, she will be the first known woman to have hiked all 11 National Scenic Trails. She is working towards that goal as we speak! We are excited for the Ice Age Trail to provide the backdrop for this incredible achievement.

Arlette graciously took some time from her busy hiking schedule to answer our questions. Read on to hear from this inspiring long-distance hiker and dollmaker from the Netherlands.

“I don’t see myself as a hiking legend. I just see myself as someone who hikes a lot.”

The dolls Arlette makes are great hiking companions! With the orange polka-dot dress, this doll is twinning with Arlette. Photo by Arlette Laan.
The dolls Arlette makes are great hiking companions! With the orange polka-dot dress, this doll is twinning with Arlette. Photo by Arlette Laan.
Arlette gazing upon a classic Wisconsin pastoral scene. Photo by Roberta Smith.
Arlette gazing upon a classic Wisconsin pastoral scene. Photo by Roberta Smith.

1. You’re originally from the Netherlands, but likely have seen more of the United States than most Americans. Do you feel like you’ve seen as much of your native country as you have the US? 

Relatively speaking, I’ve probably seen about as much of the Netherlands as of the U.S. It’s a very small country and I’ve recently started walking some of the long-distance trails there as well. I have completed the middle section of the Dutch Coastal Path and two-thirds of the Pieterpad (which is the most well known trail in the Netherlands). It’s hard to compare the two because the size is so different; you can drive through the Netherlands in several hours.

2. What should people know about the National Scenic Trails?

The National Scenic Trail designation is a little mystifying at times. Some of them are amazingly scenic with beautiful trail, and some have so much road walk in them that you question the NST designation. Not to be negative, but just because something is a called National Scenic Trail it doesn’t mean it’s an amazing trail to hike. My top 5 are the Continental Divide Trail, Pacific Crest Trail, Arizona Trail, Pacific Northwest Trail and the Appalachian Trail.

3. At what point did you decide you were going to finish all 11 National Scenic Trails?

I had already hiked several of the NST’s when I was talking with fellow hiker, Nimblewill Nomad, who has hiked them all. He said I could be the first woman to hike them all. That sounded intriguing, and except for the extremely long North Country Trail, the others I had left wouldn’t require all that much effort.

Already having completed 10 National Scenic Trails, Arlette is a pro at "following the blazes." Photo by Arlette Laan.
Already having completed 10 National Scenic Trails, Arlette is a pro at "following the blazes." Photo by Arlette Laan.

4. Have you always been goal-oriented? 

I am not specifically goal oriented, but once I start a hike I’m not likely to quit. I do like keeping track of trails I’ve hiked and exploring new ones. I’m not usually interested in ‘lists’ unless I’ve already done a huge chunk of it just by wanting to hike whatever is on the list. Then I’m like “might as well finish”.

5. Were there tell-tale signs from your childhood that you’d end up being a long- distance hiker? 

I did not grow up hiking. But, I was always active, and being Dutch, you bike everywhere. I didn’t start hiking in the mountains until I was 18 and went on vacation to Switzerland.

6. I guess I should ask, do you consider long-distance hiker to be your profession or your hobby?

I think my current hiking habit is a bit more than a hobby, but it’s not like I get paid for it (unless I’m guiding), so I wouldn’t call it a profession either.

7. Your trail name, “Apple Pie,” comes from your love of sweets. And although there are a lot of good desserts here in Wisconsin, how do you feel about cheese curds?  Because that’s what we’re really known for, you know.

I love cheese curds! Coming from a country that knows its cheese, I can appreciate being in cheese country. Our best ones so far have been from the sports bar in Centuria during their bingo night.

Bad day on the Trail? Nothing a pit stop for some cheese curds can't cure! Photo courtesy of Arlette Laan.
Bad day on the Trail? Nothing a pit stop for some cheese curds can't cure! Photo courtesy of Arlette Laan.
Staying dry on the Trail is a skillset of its own. Photo courtesy of Arlette Laan.
Staying dry on the Trail is a skillset of its own. Photo courtesy of Arlette Laan.

8. The dolls you make are adorable. Does your hiking influence or inspire your dolls? Or, is that from a separate vein of creativity?

Over the years, I’ve connected my hiking and my doll making by making hiking mascots. Little ones can go on a backpack and I’ve sometimes given them sweaters and white blazes (for the AT). Bigger ones can be custom made to look like their owners with fleece sweaters and buffs. They can even have little hiking backpacks, or in my case, a matching hiking dress.

9. Your husband often hikes with you or supports your hikes, so obviously he’s onboard with what you’re doing. But what about other friends and family — especially when you first started long-distance hiking, what did they think?

My hiking friends are super supportive, and so is my family. And while most of my artist friends think I’m crazy, they still cheer me on.

10. You’ve been described as a “hiking legend” and “badass.” How does that make you feel?

I don’t see myself as a hiking legend. I just see myself as someone who hikes a lot. But thinking back, I am really proud of some of the harder hikes I’ve done. Like, going out on the Pacific Northwest Trail in 2007, when nobody else was out there, and there were hardly any resources besides the guide book descriptions and simple maps. Or, completing the Hayduke Trail. Backpacking the 48 4,000 footers of New Hampshire. Winter hiking the New England section of the AT in winter. I’m definitely proud of those. I guess you could call those accomplishments badass.

11. Do you see yourself as a role model (for other women, hikers, etc.)?

I hope to show that you don’t have to be tall and skinny and 20-something to be able to hike or backpack. I’m 50 with some extra weight on me and I’m doing it. Just listen to your body and do distances and trails that feel good to you.

Arlette began her thru-hike of the Ice Age Trail at the western terminus in St. Croix Falls. Photo courtesy of Arlette Laan.
Arlette began her thru-hike of the Ice Age Trail at the western terminus in St. Croix Falls. Photo courtesy of Arlette Laan.

12. Are there other long-distance hikers you admire? Or, maybe other athletes, or even non-athletes. Who do you admire/look up to?

I admire those who go out there and chase their dreams.  One specific hiker who I like to follow is Buck 30 (Brian Tanzman), he is always out doing something intriguing and sharing his intel with others once he’s done. He’ll be on some amazing desert route this year. I can’t wait to read the write up on that one. [His journals are on Postholer.com]

13. If what I was reading was correct, the John Muir Trail was your first scenic trail in 2002. That was 20 years ago. Let me ask…has it gotten easier or harder? (Purposely a bit vague—”it” could mean hiking, life, the pace… whatever you want it to mean.)

I think it’s mostly gotten easier. Physically, my body may need more time to recover, but I’ve also been pushing pretty hard the last few years, so it’s hard to tell. With staying in shape and hiking in the White Mountains, I would say I’m in some ways a better hiker than when I hiked the Appalachian Trail. I’m more nimble and have better balance. Gear wise, I know better what I like and use, so getting ready for a trip is easier. Planning and hiking trails has gotten easier with smart phones, GPS apps, better maps, and information on the internet.

14. You know there’s a John Muir Park segment of the Ice Age Trail, which lets you walk on the land that was his boyhood home. If you choose to pass by that, you’ll most likely do the Eastern bifurcation. Have you decided if that’s the route you’ll take?

I haven’t decided whether I’ll go west or east on the bifurcation. I’ll take suggestions on that one.

Hepatica by Arlette Laan
Fiddlehead by Arlette Laan
Trout Lily by Arlette Laan

Taking on the Ice Age Trail in spring, Arlette has encountered some muddy conditions. This season comes with upsides too, though! Arlette has seen the forests come alive with new growth, including: hepatica (left), fiddleheads (center), and trout lilies (right). Photos by Arlette Laan.

15. What preconceptions do you have about the Trail?   I know you’ve been forewarned about the ticks…

My expectations for the Ice Age Trail are that there is lots of road walking, which I know is still coming up in the eastern part. So far, I’ve been pleasantly surprised at how nice the trail is. A few mud pits here and there, but nothing too major yet. Spring flowers are starting to bloom, so that’s nice. Cheese curds are good. People like their bingo. And, there have definitely been lots of ticks already. I even bought long pants to wear, but it’s been too warm to wear them.

16. Anything you’re most excited for?

It will be really cool to finish this hike, as it’ll be the last of the 11 National Scenic Trails. And hopefully, some of the friends I’ve made on the NCT in Ohio or Michigan will be able to be there at the finish.

17. Post long-distance hikes, people report falling into a funk or depression. Have you ever experienced this?

I have experienced post-hike depression for sure. At that time, it wasn’t very well known (2003), so I had no idea what was happening. But, it makes sense. For five months, I had been very active, endorphins were flowing, I was outside meeting new friends and exploring new scenery every day. Coming home to the same old, same old wasn’t going too well for me. Now, I always have a plan for the next hike and try to keep hiking once a week at the least.

18. What’s the coolest thing you’ve seen on a hike?  What was your best day on Trail?

There are so many cool things and best days I’ve had that it’s hard to just pull out one. I’ll just mention the most recent cool day. We had the best porcupine sighting I’ve ever had. It came waddling down the trail towards us, climbed a tree and we were able to just take it all in. That same day a storm blew by us, darkening the sky but still leaving some sun, and the scene was just incredible.

Sometimes a hiking buddy makes all of the difference. Arlette has been hiking the Ice Age Trail with fellow hiker, "Little Bird." Photo courtesy of Arlette Laan.
Sometimes a hiking buddy makes all of the difference. Arlette has been hiking the Ice Age Trail with fellow hiker, "Little Bird." Photo courtesy of Arlette Laan.

19. What is your favorite Trail Angel moment?

One of my favorite Trail Angel moments was last year when a local hiker named “Walkie Talkie” joined me for a crappy, snow-covered section of the North Country Trail. I hadn’t hiked with anyone in a month and having her company was magical to me.

20. Have all the Trails started blending together in your memories? Or, can you remember them individually?  If so, how do you keep track of your memories?

All the trails I’ve hiked are so different that they don’t blend together, but for some trails I have a clearer memory than others. I also have kept journals; most being online at trailjournals.com, or now, on Instagram (@arlette_laan).

Follow Arlette as she hikes the Ice Age Trail! She is blogging about her journey on the trek.co.

21. You will be the first woman to complete all 11 National Scenic Trails, as far as what anyone can tell, right?  That’s a huge accomplishment. So, will you try and hike it extra fast to get it done? Or, will you savor the Trail and take your time?

This being the last one doesn’t make me want to finish it faster. I pushed so hard on the North Country Trail, and more recently on the Natchez, that I want to take it a bit easier here. I also know that the western section, which I’m currently on, is the nicer one, so I’m taking my time enjoying it.

22. Have you thought about what’s after National Scenic Trails? What’s your next hiking achievement?

There are always hiking and traveling adventures floating around in my head, but I’m actually kind of excited to go back to doll making for a bit and doing some shorter trails. I also hope to do some guiding trips again in the Whites of NH this summer.

Leave No Trace, but feel free to leave a note in the log books kept at trailheads! Photo courtesy of Arlette Laan.
Leave No Trace, but feel free to leave a note in the log books kept at trailheads! Photo courtesy of Arlette Laan.

Good luck on your Ice Age Trail journey, Arlette!

How do you become an Ice Age Trail Thousand-Miler?